Travel Sweden’s High Coast: The far-flung Höga Kusten is a wild and wonderful place. Almost as far north as you can go in the country, the region is full of natural wonders, islands, adrenaline-kicks, and, as it turns out, gin, Tamara Thiessen discovers.
Photography by Tamara Thiessen
Ok, first question: Who ever knew there was a High Coast of Sweden? Well, frankly, I didn’t. Not until 2021, when I snuck in my first trip there between lockdowns. Now, I couldn’t imagine my life without it, and am rearing to return to this incredibly wild, natural heart of Sweden.
October is a perfect time to visit the Höga Kusten … amid the last outpourings (or rather, trickles) of autumn sunshine.
From the outset, Sweden’s High Coast area is one veiled in mystery. (Firstly, for the fact I’d never heard of it). Yet there it was, geographically fascinating – way up north, nudging both Finland and Norway, and tickling the Arctic extremes.
Sweden Travel: Höga Kusten… Yep, That Means High Coast
The breathtakingly scenic, island-splashed coastal region faces the Gulf of Bothnia, the northernmost branch of the Baltic Sea. With its mossy national parks and astounding geology, it sounds to me like a Swedish Middle-earth. A place full of the promise of wild nature encounters – and maybe even of moose and trolls. That is enough to compel me to face what is sure to be a jaw-numbingly crisp late autumn trip.
After a long train and plane combination from Strasbourg, via Frankfurt and Stockholm, I land in Umeå. Here, I immediately realise my encounter with the Swedish language will be more of a battle … when a four-letter word is near impossible to pronounce. (And I still have the likes of Örnsköldsvik and Västernorrland to contend with).
Yet Swedish is pleasant on the ear, with its lovely lilting intonations – and in this case, a short and long sound packed into one letter.
Umeå sounds much to me like ooh-meow. So you meow it.
In the swirling mist, we cross a bridge over the midnight blue Ume River and pass through the once European City of Culture. “Umeå is known as the town of the birch tree. If you damage one, you have to pay around a €7000 fine,” says Viveca, one of our tour leaders.
Within an hour of landing, we come face to face with Sweden’s feisty nature-loving spirit, and encounter it often during our 3-day High Coast trip.
On a Natural High in Sweden
The journey is jam-packed with wonders. So, nature lovers, get planning for the Swedish trip of a lifetime … One that sweeps in nature encounters with adrenaline, museums, culture, herrings and gin. Here are my 10 highlights from the High Coast trip.
1. Sleep in a Bird’s Nest
The arrival at Granö Beckasin is cold, wet and muddy. But the welcome is warm as a hug. As is the accommodation. The climb up to my cosy, canopy-level room is riveting. The lodgings jut into the forest over the river.
“We wanted them to harmonise with nature and for you to get a bird’s perspective when you’re inside,” says manager Christopher Storm.
After a meal of Swedish organic comfort food par excellence (roasted veg, golden chanterelle mushrooms, homemade rye bread), I sleep soundly lulled in my cradle of trees and night silhouettes. My braver companions are up at all hours of morning and night, searching for elk and sightings of the Northern Lights. Unfortunately, both eschew them. Yet the Aurora often manifests over the Ume River here, in techno-colored lime greens and psychedelic yellows.
In Search of Moose and Northern Stars
The idea of riding on a moose bareback under the stars and lights really appeals to me … And it is something one can only imagine doing in Sweden’s invigorating nature extremes. That and eating moose cheese – “the most expensive in the world”, says Christopher.
Everything here in vast and low-populated Norrland is about getting back to nature. It’s not hard – it’s all around. Sleigh rides, skiing, yoga, ethnobotany classes, hot tub soaks and hikes are some of the activities on offer. That said, we’re still not actually on the High Coast, but some 90 kilometres inland in Västerbotten. Still, Granö Beckasin is undoubtedly one of the top 10 highlights of my trip – this is where the wonders begin.
2. Down Coffee and Kanelbullar Around a Swedish Campfire
The next morning, on the road from Granö to the coast, the whole stretch is emblazoned with orange, yellow, and green autumn colours reaching their peak. Through the leaves, glimpses of water prevail.
Typical Swedish picturesque red wooden houses dot the foreshore. Others are minty green or lemon yellow with a few ornate white wooden touches. The red paint on the houses, cottages and barns comes from iron oxide pigments from the copper mining industry.
All this time, we are skirting the Bothnian Sea on the northeast Swedish coast. Finland is visible across the way … or at least it would be on a fine day. Down by the pebbly seashore of Kälsviken, we encounter Mia Karlsson, a nature-dynamite director at the High Coast’s destination development. She’s cooking us up a traditional fika on a campfire. Smoke is gently billowing from the aluminium kettle towards the pine trees. We stand around and share in this moment of strong black coffee downed with fresh-baked kanelbullar and plenty of convivial cheer.
A Love for Cinnamon Buns and Wild Nature
“The forces of nature have been working for 20 thousand years here to shape a dramatic landscape with the world’s highest coastline,” Mia says. A dramatic land uplift chiselled out in cliffs rising to 286 metres (938 ft) above sea level. The phenomenon, which underpins the World Heritage listing, is also apparent in the glacial grooves on the rocks (the fancy word is striations). But also in low-lying mountains capped with sedimentary deposits (again, for geologists, it’s glacial ’till’). And in pebbly cobblestone expanses such as this.
Backing into the pines is a beach hideout. A Swedish-stylish yet minimalist wooden shelter, built by architecture students. Their ArkNat constructions dot the 130-kilometre ‘Höga Kusten Leden‘ – the Swedish High Coast trail – that extends through the UNESCO area.
They also answer to every person’s right in Sweden to sleep overnight in nature, free of both fees and rules. Though with an implicit Swedish need to respect nature. Something that seems just as natural in deep green Sweden. I’m in awe of their nature-loving ways, immersed in this incredible wild beauty, among people who exude such a down-to-earth aura.
3. Hike In Skuleskogen’s National Park
From Hålviken to the port of Docksta and then onto nearby Skuleskogen National Park, we are playing leapfrog across some of Bottenhavet’s multiple inlets and peninsulas. Only you’d never know it, as we can hardly see a thing through the mist. That adds its own set of mysterious charm to the area, and I keep imagining I’m in the pages of a Swedish forest thriller.
Likewise, in the national park. Instead of getting “breathtaking views overlooking the archipelago” as promised, we get sheer Swedish-style Wuthering Heights. To the point that I expect Heathcliff to come running towards me any minute over the russet-colored moorlands. Gently undulating duckboards wind through the mist, Sphagnum mosses and minty green air, amid towering spruce and pine forests.
It’s the geology that makes this a marvel in UNESCO’s eyes. Not its scenic beauty per se. Though that is considerable.
4. Partake in Sweden’s Outdoor World Love
Chunky outdoor tables decked with candles, flowers, and leaves mark the entry to FriluftsByn. The “outdoor village” with its visitor centre, cafe-restaurant and boutique accommodation spreads around the forested shores of Gällstasjön Lake. It’s also located right at the foot of Skuleberget mountain, which sweeps in the coast’s highest point (at 286 metres/938 feet).
Founder, Jerry Engström, formerly worked as global marketing director for iconic Swedish outdoor company, Fjällräven. Now he’s busy espousing the virtues of a life in nature, for which he is a great advertisement (strapping, smiling, oozing wellbeing). This, in his roles as company director, motivational speaker and events organiser.
The site is home to some of Sweden’s largest outdoor festivals, including the Utefest – a 3-day outdoor party and non-stop nature fest. Plus dozens of activities from mushrooming courses and meditation to kayaking, winter hikes and music festivals.
For a perfectly serene forest sleep, Swedish-style, there are a series of wooden huts dotted in the grounds. The rustic ‘bodarna’ exude Scandinavian hygge – cosiness, and style. Think, fur rugs and milk-white wooden walls. There is also plenty of space for camping here – both tents and RVs.
Embrace Scandinavian Hygge – Cosiness
5. Send The Adrenaline Sky High On Skuleberget’s Via Ferrata
At this point, a miracle happens. From the heavy shrouds of mist and ongoing drizzle, we get a true autumn day. Golden hues, shining blue skies… and the layers of clothing come off. The timing is perfect, for this is the day we are to tackle the Via Ferrata. And it’s another one of those times in my life where I am so glad I didn’t give in to the sooky spirit.
Seizing up the cliff-face at Skuleberget, I am tempted to. Even if I am already fitted out in a helmet and harness. Soon, I know, there will be no turning back.
The “White Route” is a challenge enough for me and my companions. Yet the steep ascent via pegs and footholds ends up being pretty easy-peasy. At least, compared to what I imagined was in store. The adrenaline-pumping adventure offers jaw-dropping views over the High Coast. Deep blues and greens spread for miles through the meandering forested islands of the archipelago.
Right now, hanging back at near 1000 ft elevation, I could do with more than a drop of Swedish gin for Dutch courage. Up top, my prayers are answered at the little FriluftsByns Toppstuga – a cafe run by our climb-leader, Jerry. The Swedish media amusingly dub him “nature Jesus” … True, he is our saviour along the climb. From the summit chalet, we gasp at 360-degree views of the coast and inland forests.
6. Go Island Hopping on the High Coast of Sweden
On our way out to the Ulvön islands, we get to see the full splendour of the archipelago unfurl in dazzling autumn tones. All that while soaking up the maritime wonders of Sweden. The trip takes me home (to my island of Tasmania), across the sea, far away.
North Ulvön – the largest of the pair of Ulvöarna islands – is drenched in herring history and natural and cultural charms.
As late afternoon sun shimmers across the harbour, some of my crazy companions take a pre-sauna dip in the icy waters, hurling themselves in, straight from the port. My room at the Ulvö Hotell enjoys fantastic views over the bay. Yet there’s barely time to settle into the snug timber-walled den of contemporary Baltic style before rejoining the group.
On a short stroll around the village of Ulvöhamn, we pass beguiling cottages with model lighthouses and other marine decor in their windows. We also dip into local history at the extraordinary little Ulvö Museum and take in the fresco wonders of the mid-17th-century Ulvön chapel.
Sour Herring Initiation Ceremony – or Horror Show
Boat sheds and traditional wooden frames for drying fishing nets are dotted about the streets. This was once the biggest fishing village on northern Sweden’s coast, its economy fuelled by a tradition of surströmming – fermented Baltic Sea herring.
When sailors sent some of the stinky fish to the King a few centuries ago, they almost lost favour, not to mention their heads, says Tobias Andersson, head chef at the Ulvö Hotell. He prepares us a surströmming tasting outdoors under the moonlight, and frankly, it’s far less disgusting than I feared. In fact, it’s rather nice … in small doses. Particularly when downed with lots of alcohol and condiments, as we do. The enchanting atmosphere also helps take the edge off what I feared would be a herring horror show.
Tobias plys us with shots of gin, and herring on grainy flatbread with onion and cheese shavings. This helps soften the flavour, which is not nearly as strong as the smell. This is a cult happening in Sweden – and a kind of initiation ritual for many outsiders. Herring is consumed en masse at festivals in late August (by royal decree, the tins couldn’t be sold before then).
Back indoors, in a lounge decked with mod moose heads (ceramic versions) and industrial pendant lights, we eat a pleasantly herring-free dinner. For my carnivore companions, there is moose on the plate, in the form of moose steaks with mash and wild blueberry sauce.
The scenery on the trip back is again legendary. These everyday ferry rides – a public transport for many – are among the cheapest travel thrills possible. The boats leave Köpmanholmen several times a day during summer and around once a day in winter – mostly for residents.
7. Buy A Foxy Fjällräven Backpack
In Höga Kusten, we keep meeting people down by the sea … in the freezing, bloody autumn cold. It’s clearly a Swedish thing to freeze and smile simultaneously in nature. True, it does rouse a feeling of togetherness, huddled around a campfire, sharing stories and frosty air.
This time, we’re gathering at the beach of Norrfällsviken, a small fishing village near the end of a peninsula. Indeed, one of the coast’s dozens of crinkle-cut-edged promontories. This one points its finger towards Ulvön, a few miles across the bay. The area is a nature reserve filled with orchids and uplifted cobble fields of red granite rocks.
Swedish things (and people) have that rugged, down-to-earth, durable quality – as well as being unspeakably good-looking. Even the little outdoor seating pads spaced out along the tree trunk we’re seated on bear Fjällräven’s distinctive fox imprint.
Svante Björkroth heads up R&D at the company, founded in 1950 when Åke Nordin needed a sturdy backpack for hiking in the area. The upscale brand produces earthy colored gear – clothing and packs. Some of the packs come in more lurid coloured pastels too, yet still radiate Swedish engineering chic. For now, it’s time to be swept in from the cold.
8. Visit A WeirdWonderful Outdoor Museum
A series of wooden dwellings, sculptures, and installations spread through the forest … that’s Mannaminne.
“The purpose of Mannaminne is to show how everything is connected,” said the museum’s creator, Anders Åberg, who died in 2018.
“Culture depends on history, technology and influences from near and far.”
From 1980, the maverick artist established 50 buildings here. We stroll from the Accordion House, Agricultural Museum, Technology Museum and the Globe House – with its big papier-mâché planets. All this was part of Åberg’s socially conscious rallying against the shrinking countryside. Yet he was fascinated with world geography and politics. (Bernie Sanders gets a mention on one of the murals.)
9. Eat Lots Of Tunnbröd – Flatbread
This is not the same as crispbread. Tunnbröd, or flatbread, is a high coast invention – a passion that went national. At Mjälloms Tunnbröd deli, we taste the wares handed down through generations from the oldest flatbread bakery.
Founded in 1923 by Ruth Viberg, today it’s run by her grandson Torbjörn Ullsten. The barley-based bread sprang up from necessity – wheat could not grow in the cold conditions (which we can all vouch for, even in autumn).
It takes 40 seconds at incredibly high temperatures (around 400°C/752°F) to cook the bread. A process now done with the help of industrial robots, as well as a wood-fired oven.
The stuff is delicious, addictive and nutritious – with 12g of protein and loads of energy. The Swedes don’t miss a meal without it, much like the baguette to the French. Today, tunnbröd comes in all kinds of flavours, such as sweet potato.
The Mjälloms brand is sold at ICA’s and Coop’s countrywide. So I get to stock up on more in Stockholm before leaving the country. (By now, being equally addicted to it as your average Swede).
10. Drink Lots Of Gin
Gin is always a good note to end on. Jon Hillgren, founder of Hernö Gin, joins us for a gin-infused meal (right through to the truffles) at Brygghuset. The lovely wooden cottage by the sea has dream-crisp, fresh interiors, exuding Swedish natural style. Lunch at the “KökBar (restaurant-bar) is cooked up for us by star Swedish chef Fredrik Persson.
Here we enjoy rye bread served with various condiments: dollops of whitefish roe, cream cheese and herbs, pickled silver onion, and pan-fried chanterelles. Plus, lots of locally-sourced fruits of the earth and sea and farm cheeses. The decadent truffles are also spiced up with juniper and thyme.
On those alone, I am feeling tipsy and jovial by the time we leave and cross the road to the distillery. This is where the wicked, citrusy, and multi-award-winning drop is concocted – in gleaming hand-hammered copper stills.
Stop press! Hernö Gin now has a gin hotel. Talk about the stuff of my dreams. I can’t wait to try it on my next trip.
Now It’s Time To Boat Back To Stockholm
Look, I’ll be honest. Cruises are just not my thing. But there’s no better way of seeing Sweden’s incredible island world.
The highlight on board the Tallink Silja cruise ship is, of course, the views. Plus, there is more gin on board. They even sell Hernö at the duty-free.
Coming into Stockholm the next morning, the scenery from the deck of the Silja Symphony ship is just out of this world. And we are spoiled by a shimmering blue sky day, sailing through the phenomenal archipelago of some 30,000 islands. Stockholm tourism quaintly calls it a “cluster”.
The passage is also one through mesmerising island culture. For Viveca, it is emotional. As we stand on the deck chatting, the vivid storytelling about her family’s island life has me spellbound. Like so many Swedish people, her roots lie in the archipelago. And many memories of paddling across the water to school are rekindled.
GETTING TO THE HIGH COAST OF SWEDEN
From Stockholm, non-stop 1-hour flights to Umeå with Norwegian Airlines and SAS cost from around €45 ($53) one-way. Driving time is around 7 hours. The roads through the area are excellent.
Where To Sleep/Eat ON Sweden’s High Coast
Granö Beckasin lies on the shores of the Ume River – Umeälven – in central Västerbotten county. About an hour’s drive from Umeå, the eco-hotel includes cottages, camping and the birds’ nest accommodation. Kravmärkta restaurant serves up good Swedish grub – lots of vegetables, meat and farm cheese – with creativity and locally-sourced ingredients. The gabled riverside cafe is also an incredibly cosy place for breakfast, or coffee and cake.
Camp or stay in a stylish Swedish cabin at FriluftsByn. From the basic camping cottages to the cosy self-catering ‘Stuga’, it’s a natural heaven here. There’s also a restaurant and cafe.
The nature chic Ulvö Hotell on Ulvön Island is a lovely wooden chalet-style hotel with a welcoming post-hike sauna. The rooms will have Swedish design lovers in zen mode. The walls are a mix of soft grey and tan wood, and the same earthy, fresh shades reflect in the bedding and furnishings.
For a night at the museum, Hotel Mannaminne offers simple accommodation decked with artworks and seafaring decor. The stay includes free admission and a guided tour of the museum. A good hiking base, the nearby Värdsardseden trail connects to the High Coast Trail.
Mjälloms deli and cafe is in Ullånger, about half an hour’s drive southwest of the national park. Wallow in its gorgeously displayed wares and buy up picnic or self-catering supplies here too.
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