Sweet Strasbourg: The Best Pâtisseries in France’s European Capital

The Best Pâtisseries in Strasbourg … France’s ‘capital of Europe’ is home to one of the best pastry traditions in the country. The following four are among the top pâtisseries (that’s pastry stores, but also the pastries themselves) in Strasbourg. The city could also qualify as the ‘Capital of Sweets’!

Best Pâtisseries in Strasbourg: Alsace Sweet Spot

Today started in one of the best ways possible … for a self-confessed French tart. With an almond croissant from Pâtisserie Litzler-Vogel, just a hop, skip and jump from my Strasbourg base.

This is one of the Holy Grail pâtisseries of Strasbourg. At least it has been for me, from the year dot of my time in the city. That was yonks ago on a journalism scholarship in 1996. Yep, good things stand the test of time (not me, the pastry store and its famous dark almond-filled croissant!) Long live the croissant fourré aux amandes noirs!

Alsace: A Land of Master Bakers

It didn’t take me long to sniff out the best bakeries and pastry shops in town. With a little bit of help from friends. Locals, of course. Alsace exports its pastry and bread makers – such is their skill. Pierre Hermés, Eric Kayser, to name just two.

Pastries are extraordinary all over France. An art form. A way of life. But they don’t get much, if any better, than in Alsace, where my days as a French bakery trollop began. I only show fidelity to Litzler-Vogel because my taste buds tell me to … And they do, 20 plus years on.

That’s a solid baking tradition, I might add. One that has lasted seven decades across three generations of owners and bakers.

I am a ‘briochée’ dough fan. That is, pastries made in a briochy, more bready way … As opposed to the pâte feuilletée (puff pastry) tradition, of pastries weighed down in layers of butter.

Croissants of Your Dreams in Sweet Strasbourg: Black-Almond Filled

So, back to that almond croissant … in nitty-gritty delectable detail. I’m struggling to think of a croissant in Paris – after several years living there – that does it to me in this way. Croissant-gasms. Sure, they exist. Litzler-Vogel’s Croissant fourré aux amandes blanches is filled with ground almond meal, not with an almond cream as is more common.

The wadded, dense almond croissants found across France are made with puff pastry. Slathered in butter (or in worst-case scenarios, margarine) and coated in slivered almonds.

This one is a light, bouncy, though crisp in the right places (around the tails and on the top) croissant. The dough is bready and airy. There’s plenty of it. The filling is also light and not overly sweet – in fact, not sweet at all. (You can always serve it with some jam to spread on those unfilled, bready bits if you wish.)

Pastry Overload

Other Litzler-Vogel favourites, for me, include the coconut-filled croissants. Or the sultana-filled escargot – snail-like brioches – an Alsace native, which are also called ‘Petits chinois’. And for a fine dinner party ending, something from the moussy, fruity array of gateaux … Or a fresh strawberry tart.

I have trouble showing self-restraint when I’m here, and I only have a few days left in Strasbourg on this trip. I will do my best to put it to good, pastry-eating use.

Sure, I know it’s a terrible presumption to think that what tickles my fancy will tickle yours. But you will have plenty of goodies to choose from at all these pastry stores. Here are my top 4, and a couple of their specialities I suggest trying. 

My Top Four Pâtisseries in Strasbourg on the Map

Try these four sweet spots in Strasbourg – and I promise it will hit yours!

• Pâtisserie Litzler-Vogel

  9 Rue d’Austerlitz

  There are so many yummy patisseries (cakes) and viennoiseries (pastries) to choose from. Take a mouth-watering look. The maison specialises in lovely layered mousse and biscuit gâteaux concoctions, many with aromatic fruity flavours.

  The strawberry-sponge encased Le Féminin Fraise is described as ‘a white almond biscuit, fresh strawberry marmalade, panna cotta and lime zest, light vanilla mousse’. Some of them are incredibly light – the sablé biscuit-based pastries are less so.

  From Litzler-Vogel, you can set out on a 30-minute stroll around these top 4 pastry stores – and walk off the sweet ills (or fruits) along the way! They are all concentrated in Strasbourg’s historic centre. Only Litzler-Vogel is on the encircling quay where we live. The others are over the River Ill on the island itself.

  

• Maison Naegel

  9 Rue des Orfèvres

  Country style, Maison Naegel’s wooden shelves are packed with chunky savoury quiches, tarts and tourtes, and wholesome breads.

  Run by third-generation baker, Pierre Naegel, there are also seasonal fruity tartelettes galore. Try Alsace staples like quetsches plums, mirabelles (yellow cherry plums), and blueberries. Plus the specialty breads, including cumin, chestnut, and pumpernickel. I love the grainy pain moissons – and anything with salmon in it.

  On the sweeter side, all of the scrolled bun chinois – pécan, pistache-griotte (morello cherry), and aux raisin – are to die for.

  

   

• Patisserie Christian

  12 Rue de l’Outre

  Stylish, classy classics, gorgeously executed and creatively wild. Pâtisserie Christian is a sweet Strasbourg dreamland of fantastic cake creations. The lemon biscuit tarte au citron meringuée is a bijoux – and the hazelnut-filled Noisettine, a hit. The latter combines ‘a Japanese hazelnut base with a smooth coffee cream’.

  Aside from gateaux galore, Christian is a maitre chocolatier – a master chocolate maker. It doesn’t get darker, richer, muddier and more authentic in flavour than here.

  As Christmas gets closer, I’m dreaming of a Christian Christmas! Oeuvres like this make living through a cold winter in Europe more bearable! As Christian cheekily says on Instagram:

  “The dessert that creates a sensation for dinner guests … without lifting a finger”. The Instant Praliné has a shortbread base topped with crunchy praline, caramel coulis, and vanilla mousse … “It’s a perfect combination of crunch, melt-in-your-mouth texture, and sweetness. All that’s left to do is place it on the table… and reap the compliments.”

  

• Pâtissier Chocolatier Barthelemy

  9 Pl. Broglie

  Double the trouble – or delights – an artisan chocolatier and pastry maker in the opera quarter of elegant Place Broglie. I discovered it in the 90s, but it’s had a bit of a facelift since my first visit. All pure and white, which makes a perfect backdrop to the colourful, seductive goods on display.

  My friend, Panos Kakaviatos, author of the Wine Chronicles, alerted me to this fruity fantasy in a Facebook post a couple of years ago. Apparently, he could easily qualify as a pastry chronicler, too. Of the gorgeous raspberry tart, he says, “it’s not too sweet” (sweet being relative, but he was absolutely right there – for my tastes).

  

Before heading back to Paris, I pass by here to buy a sweet indulgence to take to a friend’s place … For an early birthday celebration, if one needs an excuse.

The box is as pretty pastel pink as a picture. But of course, it’s what’s inside that counts most. It too is pink! Framboise pink. And divine. A little rich for my liking … the crème pâtissière filling. But the raspberry biscuit encasing and those piled on top are yummy. And it certainly makes for a fine occasion, fitting to Astrid’s stylish afternoon tea presentation.

Now, after writing this post, I’m seriously hungry. Salivating for sweets. So I’m off to bake something – or to duck out to the closest pâtisserie. Bon appétit!