You may be surprised just how easily Americans are traveling to France. Then on from there to the rest of Europe.
In September, Donnie Callaway – a collectible car restorer and Ferrari expert from Malibu – breezed into Paris and booked into the Ritz. Callaway landed in France without a hitch, via an Istanbul flight connection.
That’s despite the French government claiming that the only non-Europeans welcome for restriction-free travel are those on the EU’s safe country list. That list now stands at 8 countries, whose travelers are welcome in the bloc. On its latest review, the U.S. still failed to make the grade.
Exempt US Travelers Must Show Covid-19 Test, In Theory
Others from high-risk countries can enter, with “a sworn declaration that you do not have COVID-19 symptoms”, You also need a form showing you are exempt from non-essential travel restrictions says the government.
“You must present this certificate to travel companies,” the interior ministry states, “as well as to border control authorities (for travel by air, sea and land, including by rail).”
But those are the rules in theory. In practice the picture is quite different.
“They only seem to be interested in the self declaration form on how you feel and if you have any symptoms,” Callaway says. However not in either proof of travel ban exemptions, or Covid tests.
Many other travelers are reporting similar experiences. French authorities are “barely looking at their passports”, let alone asking for test results.
Another American, Kylie Richards, flew from Washington D.C. to France via Slovenia in September. “After checking with the French consulate in both the US and Slovenia, I was told after a 14-day quarantine and a negative Covid 19 test, I could come into France,” she says.
France Shifts Rule To Where You Are Flying From, Not What Passport You Hold
Arriving back in Paris from Sweden a couple of weeks ago, I asked immigration officials if they were allowing American passport holders in on direct flights. “No we don’t like Americans,” one told me wryly.
“But what about if they were flying like me now, direct from the Schengen zone?” I ask.
“Yes that’s fine arriving from Schengen,” he adds. “There are plenty of small channels available if you really want to get around the travel ban and get here.”
Those channels are multiplying all the time. This as more EU countries go the way of the “14-day prior” rule, rather than what passport you hold.
Many Other Safe Corridors For Americans Traveling To France
Now getting to France apparently depends on where you are landing from – no matter how long you have spent there. This represents a shift from the policy in place for many months. That of banning all American passport holders for tourism purposes.
A green light to French travel “depends on virus circulation in your country of departure”, clarifies the government.
“If you are arriving from a country on the list below, you can enter metropolitan France without any COVID-19-related restrictions or paperwork,” it says. The list includes all member states of the European Union, the UK and Switzerland – and all those on the EU’s safe country list.
So in short, the risks for flying from the US to France as a tourist are diminishing. And some countries are easier than others for sidestepping bans. Take the UK and Ireland for example.
Americans Traveling To France From UK, Ireland By Train
In July, American Rosiana Chitra flew from the U.S. to London. Then, after a fortnight’s quarantine, took the Eurostar to France.
“My partner is French and it was months since I last saw him. A lot of people are in this predicament, and there are a bunch of these stories with travel to other parts of the EU via the UK and Ireland, from the rest of the world.”
So were there any hitches, or dangers of being turned back? “Passport control did take a longer look at my passport,” she says, “but they let me right through.”
The same situation is being played out hundreds if not thousands of times.
UK self-isolation rules do not apply to passengers in transit. As the government explains: “If transiting … you may travel directly between ports (such as Eurostar to Heathrow) without self-isolating.”
You can also cut short the quarantine, if you are leaving the UK. As long as you go directly to the departure port “and avoid public transportation.”
All transiting passengers must still fill out the Public Health Passenger Locator Form.
French Rules Made To Be Bent: Blind Eye To Tests
French enforcement (or not) of the EU travel ban is full of contradictions. Even rules on mandatory Covid test results for high-risk passengers spelt out by the interior ministry are apparently made to be bent. In the end, few travelers are being asked to show those tests.
“Never was I asked for my Covid test after I checked in at Air France in D.C!” exclaims a startled traveler, Bill Bailey.
Add to that the French quarantine rules, which stand in stark contrast from those on the other side of the Channel.
France’s 14-day quarantine on arrival for high-risk passengers is not enforced. Furthermore it’s only required for passengers with symptoms – or travelers not carrying a negative test. Which, as we have heard, so often go unchecked.
Confusion and ambiguity arise from the flexible French rules. What’s good for the goose it seems, is not necessarily for the gander.
“You are entering the Schengen zone under which of the exemptions?” one social media user asked Callaway.
“My smile,” he replied.
With a French girlfriend, Callaway may have had recourse to a partner waiver. But that “was going to take way too long” he says. France’s failure to officialize those waivers for binational couples has also seen others go to extraordinary efforts to reunite. Or to take the UK avenue.
From Malibu To Paris For A Grand Ferrari Tour Of Europe
After meeting with motor sport officials in Paris, then attending a vintage car beach race in Normandy, Callaway is now galavanting around Belgium. All this is part of his European Grand Tour, with a deep red Ferrari edge.
Depending on your departure point in France, both a test and quarantine on arrival may be required in Belgium. Much of France is classed by Brussels as a red zone.
Besides, current rules in Belgium exclude entry by American passport holders. At least those arriving from outside EU+ countries. Given most border checks in Schengen have been removed, Callaway’s Ferrari would have got him in control-free.
Still Belgium’s “passenger locator form” is mandatory for all travelers arriving by plane or sea. If you plan to stay longer than 48 hours, it applies to car travelers too. Even those driving racing red Ferraris.
So does Callaway consider himself just a privileged bloke on a lucky streak? On this long European jaunt of Ferraris and luxury hotels.
“Had I tried to go from Los Angeles direct to Paris I would not have made it past the ticket counter,” he says. “That’s why I chose Turkey just to get close. LA was crazy strict, but again I was never asked for a Covid test or anything, before boarding the plane to get to Turkey.”
That is a very well written and thought provoking story. Thank you!
I so appreciate you saying so Mark! Please look out for more soon! Best wishes Tamara
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